Situated atop a ravine, overlooking a small bay and Funchal, the Villa Cipriani is its own world. It is one of the pioneering Italian restaurants in Madeira, a trattoria, and has adapted to the times while retaining the magic of the place.
The space is the former function room of the General Manager of the Reid's Palace hotel, which has long since been turned into a restaurant. Recently, the building has added an ice-cream parlour on the ground floor. The ice creams, made under the supervision of an Italian master, are amongst the desserts featured on the restaurant’s menu.
But the Villa Cipriani is more than the view; it is about food, and lots of it. The arrival of Chef Romário Monteiro at the helm of the kitchen has brought novelties. Born in Brazil, he has 12 years' experience in Italy, including the restaurant at the Hotel Splendido in Portofino.
He confesses to Essential that ‘Italian cuisine is simple’. But if so, what makes the difference? The answer is the produce! And the ristorante follows the Reid's Palace rationale of sourcing locally as much as possible, especially fruit and vegetables. Romário Monteiro emphasises ‘tangerines and passion fruit’ for their acidity. Then there are Italian products, which really have to travel from Italy, from selected suppliers.
The new menu is a journey through the country. It brings together classic Villa Cipriani dishes and various innovations. Examples of the chef's work can be seen in a ‘potato gnocchi inspired by the Sorento region’, or a lasagne that retains the traditional flavour but is presented in a creative way.
The menu changes every six months. Diogo Costa, the hotel's Creative Executive Chef explains that the aim is to have the ‘spring/summer and autumn/winter’ seasons. The challenge is for the Villa Cipriani to ‘continue to be recognised as the best Italian restaurant in Madeira’.
Supporting this aim is a service of excellence, dedicated and efficient, and a Portuguese and Italian wine list with dozens of references. And of course, there is no shortage of Italian grappa to finish off the meal, from among the many choices available.
