It was more than a decade ago, in November 2008, that I first wrote an article linking Michelin stars to Madeira. At the time, the guide still covered Spain & Portugal, and the restaurant Il Gallo D’Oro achieved the remarkable feat of becoming the first in Madeira to earn the distinction, appearing in the 2009 guide. Benoît Sinthon and his team were pioneers, and were later followed by William at Reid’s Palace, the second star for Il Gallo D’Oro and the Green Star, and more recently Desarma, under the leadership of Chef Octávio Freitas.
Other restaurants have appeared in the guide over the years, either as recommended establishments or with the Bib Gourmand award. The idea of stars and the conversations about restaurants entered the lexicon of lifestyle and gastronomy enthusiasts but, above all, Madeira entered an elite circle of cuisine through a major global seal of approval.
For the destination, it was a reward for the work of renewing Madeiran cuisine and reinterpreting its products, carried out by chefs such as Benoît Sinthon, Yves Gautier, Luís Pestana or Carlos Magno, and more recently Octávio Freitas, among several others.
This is why hosting the 2026 Michelin Gala in Madeira has multiple meanings. On the one hand, it is only natural that the island - one of Portugal’s main tourist destinations - should host the event. But on the other hand, it is recognition that Madeira is on the gastronomic map, that interesting things are happening here, and that a journey through many of its restaurants is well worth it.
Next Tuesday’s gala, on 10 March, will do what previous ones have done: reveal the Michelin constellation in Portugal for the year. However, in Madeira’s specific case, the arrival of so many chefs and teams, the visibility it ensures, and the presentation of food with a Madeiran touch at the dinner that follows will do a great deal for the destination in promotional terms. Even if on Tuesday the restaurants distinguished in Madeira turn out to be more or less the same as last year, the very fact that the gala is being held here is a validation.
Of course, there may be some surprises as well as some certainties. The starred restaurants will most likely continue to be recognised. But one of them may perhaps be awarded an additional star. The recommended restaurants should also, in general, maintain their distinctions, though the news may come in the form of new entries or one of them moving up to a star. The potential exists, and the work has been done. Recognition is only a matter of time.
What these distinctions ultimately create for the teams that achieve them is a spirit of unity. There have been collaborative dinners. Chefs come together at events, exchange experiences and support one another. This ‘Michelin effect’ is rewarding to witness and has produced results in the quality of the customer experience and in the visibility of Madeira’s cuisine and restaurants.
Let us hope it continues that way!
