On a street in the historic centre of Funchal, Rua dos Murças, a small terrace serves as the gateway to a vibrant restaurant dedicated to the sea. This is Ákua, the second restaurant opened by chef Júlio Pereira, who is also the driving force behind several other venues in the city.
In addition to the terrace, the dining area is spread across two floors. But it is the counter that truly draws the eye. With a few seats available, it offers diners the chance to watch the hustle and bustle of the kitchen as dishes are prepared. It is almost like a cookery class, as you can interact with the team, ask questions, share thoughts and discover other dishes beyond those you have chosen to eat.
Here, there is a scent of the sea and comforting food that stirs the appetite. The ingredients are fresh and seasonal. The blending of flavours is a constant, as seen in dishes like sardine with aubergine and passionfruit, or the tuna and sesame cornet – both served as starters. Ákua also offers white fish ceviche, codfish tacos, oysters, and seafood charcuterie.
There are dishes full of flavour and aroma, such as the creamy scarlet prawn and seafood rice, seared tuna with razor clam rice, or fish served with seafood pasta and pil-pil cream – to name just a few examples.
Although it specialises in fish and seafood, the Ákua also offers meat and even vegetarian dishes, all created by Júlio Pereira and brought to life by the resident team.
Ákua is a journey back to chef Júlio Pereira’s childhood. Originally from the fishing town of Ericeira, on mainland Portugal, it was there he first discovered the aromas and flavours that would inspire him. After moving to Madeira, he deepened his knowledge using local ingredients such as black scabbardfish, parrotfish, and tuna.
The atmosphere is relaxed, and the team is focused on customer service. The service is informal yet attentive. The clientele help create a cosmopolitan feel, with people from various nationalities contributing to a chorus of languages in the air. This restaurant on a street in Funchal could easily belong in any European capital. But it does not – it is here, bringing the sea to the table every day.
