A classic is always a classic. The phrase may seem simplistic, but it captures the idea that a true classic never goes out of style. It is timeless, always relevant. That sentiment perfectly describes the iconic Reid’s Palace, a Belmond hotel, which has stood majestically atop a cliff overlooking the bay of Funchal since 1891. This classic is very much alive. It has known to match the times, continually reinventing itself, and remains a benchmark hotel in this tourist destination that spans more than two centuries.
Its most recent transformation brought about the creation of Bar 1891. It inherits the legacy of illustrious visitors and long, vibrant nights – including, it is said, spirited discussions between filmmaker Gregory Peck and director John Huston during the 1950s filming of Moby Dick in Madeira.
Bar 1891 remains the hotel’s main bar but has been completely refurbished. It now features a menu inspired by local Madeiran produce, along with an extensive drinks list, including cocktails based on Madeira wine and rum, enhanced with fresh herbs from the hotel gardens and fragrant essences that linger in the air.
Adjacent to the bar is another recent addition, the Tea Library. This is a sort of café (yes, coffee is also served), but its focus is tea. Here, you can enjoy a fine infusion without necessarily indulging in Reid’s famous Afternoon Tea – which continues to be served, of course. There are 24 varieties of tea available from the Portuguese brand Companhia do Chá, and patisserie is also on offer.
Next to it, the iconic terrace is one of the hotel’s most timeless spaces and one of its main calling cards. It is easy to imagine the likes of Empress Sissi of Austria, Winston and Clementine Churchill, various statesmen, and other celebrities sipping tea or cocktails here over the decades – or even the young American writer John Dos Passos, who stayed at Reid’s as a child in the early 20th century.
At Reid’s, every room offers a unique experience. There are several room types and spaces designed by different architects during various phases of the hotel’s expansion. The décor varies, evoking different eras, but comfort and attention to detail are constants – along with ever-present views of the sea and the bay of Funchal. The interiors feature perennial natural elements, including touches of Madeira embroidery on the bedspreads. Some rooms offer direct access to the gardens; others are perched high above, as the building gracefully follows the contours of the landscape.
This hotel is a destination within the destination. Much of the daytime experience revolves around the pool area – two heated pools surrounded by a solarium frequented by guests of increasingly diverse nationalities. This is also home to the Pool Terrace restaurant, where a comprehensive breakfast buffet is served, featuring healthy options and à la carte specialities. It also offers a lunch menu with snacks, more substantial dishes (some for sharing), and a drinks list that now includes signature cocktails.
Throughout the day, the solarium is dotted with small amenities – fruit skewers, ice creams, sunscreen, or even a glasses-cleaning service.
But one of the great attractions of this historic hotel is its access to the sea. In its early decades, guests would arrive here by small boats directly from ships anchored in the bay of Funchal. Today, it is a peaceful leisure area with crystal-clear waters and a tidal ocean pool. Tranquillity is guaranteed, with the sound only being that of waves and uninterrupted views of the sea and the city.
During the summer, another recent addition comes to life: the Brisa do Mar restaurant. Set on a terrace next to the old bathhouses, it is open during spring and summer and serves Portuguese cuisine, with a focus on fish and seafood. It is supported by a bar where guests can enjoy a late afternoon drink or a warm summer evening.
Reid’s is also home to the William, a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant, and the Villa Cipriani, a trattoria housed in an adjacent building on a separate cliff, which is also home to Geladaria San Giorgio – the younger sibling of the century-old gelato parlour of the same name at Splendido Mare in Portofino. Across all its restaurants, there is a strong emphasis on local Madeiran ingredients and a reimagining of traditional island cuisine.
At Reid’s Palace, time seems to stand still, and comfort is found in every detail – whether it be a stroll through the gardens, the sound of the piano at dusk, the sunrise or sunset, or the meticulous touches that make each moment special. All of this is delivered by a dedicated team who take genuine pleasure in welcoming guests and making this hotel feel like a second home.
