In 1986, a group of divers came together to create the Garajau Partial Nature Reserve, the first marine reserve in Portugal. At that time, the mission of this courageous collective was to prevent the progressive desertification of the seabed off the coast of Madeira and, on the other hand, to contribute to the repopulation of fauna in the adjacent areas.
Among this group of nature lovers was German Rainer Waschkewitz, one of the main driving forces behind this initiative, according to his daughter-in-law Carlota Waschkewitz, who, together with her husband Felix, are currently in charge of the Madeira Diving Centre, a family business that has been operating for 45 years.
Located mainly in the municipality of Santa Cruz and known for its crystal-clear waters, allowing observations at depths of over 20 metres, the Garajau Reserve has significant biodiversity, with a particular emphasis on its wealth of fish species. Due to its geographical location, biological richness, translucent waters and wild surrounding landscapes, the area has a high potential for recreational, educational and scientific use.
It is one of the main sanctuaries for amateur diving in Madeira, attracting people from all over the world, who come to Garajau eager to discover what the sea hides.
Nevertheless, covering an area of around 376 hectares, this emblematic site is also home to abundant endemic flora, including the blue pride of Madeira (Echium nervosum) and the fish-stunning Sturge (Euphorbia piscatoria).
Several species inhabit the Garajau Partial Nature Reserve, namely the grouper fish and the common tern. It is also common to see the sea lion, the monk seal of the Monachus monachus species.
But when it comes to the sea, Carlota Waschkewitz explains that, characterised ‘by a rocky seabed of volcanic origin, the biggest attraction is undoubtedly the groupers (Epinephelus marginatus)’.
‘Customers visiting Garajau for the first time are enchanted by this species and its behaviour. As they are in a protected area, [these fish] often approach divers, and it is indeed an unforgettable experience.’
The connection established with divers in the depths of the silent waters of the Atlantic is so strong that ‘some have names,’ Carlota Waschkewitz tells us.
"The most famous was Elvis, who, unfortunately, has passed away. Many foreigners still come looking for him. At the moment, we can find Toni, the Englishman, Buddha, among others."
Even so, there was a yellow whiting that marked marine life in the Garajau Reserve for many years. ‘Between 1980 and 2006, from September to April, this very charismatic fish appeared, which was a delight for divers.’
In 2021, architect Ricardo Bak Gordon launched the Marine Extinction Museum in digital format to educate the general public about the importance of biodiversity in the six marine protected areas of the Madeira archipelago, including Garajau, raising awareness of the need to protect species so that they do not become extinct.
To explore the seabed, in addition to the Madeira Diving Centre, the Atalaia Centre and Focus Natura are two other local companies that offer diving experiences for all levels, among other services, such as guided kayak tours, snorkelling equipment rental, and SUP and kayak rental.
The gardens surrounding Cais da Oliveira are also a reference point for bird watching, such as the buzzard (Buteo buteo harterti) and the kestrel (Falco tinnunculus canariensis).
The richness of this place is incalculable, and it is urgent to protect it. To this end, the Portuguese Society for the Study of Birds (SPEA) is carrying out the LIFE Natura@night project, whose main aim is to reduce and mitigate the impact of light pollution in the protected areas of the archipelagos of Madeira, the Azores and the Canary Islands.
