For anyone walking into Desarma, in Funchal, around six in the evening, it might have seemed like just another normal day at the Michelin-starred restaurant. The evening’s service was being prepared. In the dining room, the final touches were being made. But a closer look at the open kitchen revealed this was no ordinary day.
At one end of the counter, a group of chefs and kitchen staff were sharing a meal, standing. Sliced meats, seafood charcuterie produced in-house, and other delicacies were paired with wine and casual conversation.
It was the “warrior’s rest” before the evening rush. In just two hours, service would begin for the first of three Madeira Stars Collection dinners — events serving as a build-up to the 2026 Michelin Gala, to be held in Funchal in March.
Benoît Sinthon, head chef at Il Gallo D’Oro, holder of two Michelin Stars and a Green Star, is the most senior Michelin-awarded chef on the island. Perhaps that’s why he was entrusted with the gastronomic curatorship of the gala. These dinners, the first of which took place at Desarma, are part of that mission.
According to Sinthon, Michelin’s challenge was to generate buzz around the upcoming event. His response was to propose a series of three dinners, “organised by the Michelin-starred restaurants in Madeira, but involving all the chefs listed in the guide” — that is, even those who are only recommended.
Desarma was the stage for the inaugural event. Resident chef Octávio Freitas and his team welcomed not only Benoît Sinthon but also three other chefs featured in the guide: João Luz (Avista), Rui Pinto (Avista Asia), and César Vieira (Audax). The concept was a ten-course dinner, combining the talents of all participating teams, including Desarma’s pastry chef, Bruno Nazário.
Each course was paired with carefully selected wines, chosen by João Barbosa, sommelier at Desarma, along with Sérgio Basto, who performs the same role at Avista.
Returning to the pre-service gathering around the counter, the atmosphere was relaxed. There was none of the stress one might associate with a high-profile event. It felt more like a gathering of friends than anything else. Octávio Freitas recalled, “This spirit of collaboration didn’t exist 30 years ago.” Today, it’s different. The environment is cooperative. These events also function as on-the-job training for restaurant teams.
Furthermore, Madeira’s Michelin chefs have developed a sense of community. They socialise, share ideas, and create together. It’s not unusual to see them all cooking at events that aren’t strictly gourmet, such as Sidra em Brasa on 16 November, hosted by the Quinta da Moscadinha cider house.
This team spirit has led to innovation and training in Madeiran cuisine — a cuisine that blends the world’s finest ingredients with the very best Madeira has to offer, from land and sea. The Madeira Stars Collection dinner was a clear demonstration of this.
Once the chefs’ own meal was finished, a briefing followed, in which each course was explained. It wasn’t long before the evening’s guests arrived and the ritual began. Desarma’s kitchen lends itself to performance. It’s open, spacious, and faces the dining room — a true culinary stage.
The evening unfolded in this back-and-forth rhythm between kitchen and dining room, culminating in speeches by Octávio Freitas and Benoît Sinthon, who announced that two more dinners would follow before the grand gala on 10 March. The next will take place on 29 November at Il Gallo D’Oro, with Sinthon as host. The third is set for 6 December at William, led by chef José Diogo Costa.
